Tiny Duffle Tutorial: Binding the Lining

Banjoflannel
Jun 18
3 min read

I'm a pragmatic person who also dislikes raw edges showing in my bag patterns... which made the Tiny Duffle pattern a mental struggle in this sense. There are 2 curved seams on the inside, situated at the ends of the bag. Once the bag is complete, even when you unzip it, it is HIGHLY UNLIKELY that you or anyone else will see these raw seam edges. Therefore, I decided to not cover these curves with binding. Many sewists are uncomfortable with attaching binding (it ain't the easiest!) and the thought of applying binding to a bag as tiny as the Tiny Duffle, well, I thought it was unnecessary.

BUT! Some of you have expressed that this bothers you to no end. So, here you go! A tutorial that shows you how to cover the raw curved seams on the inside with binding.

Do you need the pattern or a kit? Click the buttons below...

Click HERE to get the Tiny Duffle Pattern

Click HERE to get a Tiny Duffle Kit

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This tutorial replaces "Step 6: Assemble Body" in the pattern

Before you begin: Cut 2 pieces, 2 1/4" x 7 1/2" from lining fabric or other fabric of your choosing. It will help to cut these pieces on the bias, but it isn't necessary. The pieces used in this tutorial were not cut on the bias.

Before beginning this tutorial, make sure you have completed all steps in the pattern through basting around the body/lining edge in "Step 5: Attach Zipper"

Fold the lining piece in half lengthwise but do not press.
Pin along the raw edge as shown.
Fold in half to find center.
Unfold and mark the center on the raw edge.
On the lining side of the rounded flap with the d-ring loop attached, mark the center at the top of the curve.
Align the center marks on the binding piece and the lining.
Insert a pin at the center marks.
Continue pinning around the curve. Don't push the pins in too far.
Pin around the other half of the curve until the binding piece is completely secured.
Baste the binding piece to the Tiny Duffle piece starting and stopping at the corners of the Tiny Duffle piece. This sewn line should be about 1/8" from the edge. We don't want to see these stitches later.
Turn WS out with zipper closed. Unzip slightly just past the edge of the body and sew back and forth over the zipper teeth to keep them together.
Align the center mark on the binding piece with the center of the zipper. Pin on both sides of the zipper teeth and baste just at the center mark.
Align the edges of the round side flap and the main body and pin well.
Sew around the curve with a 1/4" seam. Take your time!
Trim the zipper end so that it's flush with the Tiny Duffle piece.
Fold the binding ends back towards itself and pin.
Wrap the binding length over the raw seam to the other side.
While holding the binding ends in place, remove the previously inserted pin and re-insert so that the entire binding end is secure.
Finish sewing the binding to the Tiny Duffle by sewing along the binding fold edge. I use my general/zig-zag presser foot. Align the binding fold edge just past the previously sewn 1/4" line from the other side. Then, sew just a smooch inward from that fold edge. This will position the sewn line just inward from the binding edge on the other side as well. The most important thing to remember is that the structural seam for the end has already been sewn. Don't let the sewn line for finishing the binding encroach past the structural seam...it will not look good when turned RS out :(
Here's exactly what I do:
1. The center line on my presser foot is matched up to the binding fold edge.
2. The binding fold edge is constantly checked to make sure it lies just a smidge past the previously sewn 1/4" seam from the other side.
3. The needle position is moved to the right of center just a little.
4. I use a stiletto to firmly control the position of the binding fold edge.
5. I carefully maintain these elements while I'm sewing on the binding and I have good results every time.
Repeat all these steps for the other rounded end of the Tiny Duffle. There's no need to sew the zipper end teeth together but make sure the zipper is open before you start!