Eclipse Project Case Sew Along: Week 1 - Fabric Selection & Cutting
- Banjoflannel
- Apr 6
- 6 min read
Updated: 5 days ago
Thank you for joining in on the FIRST Sew Along celebrating my new book, "Patchwork Sashiko: Transform Your Scraps". This Eclipse Project Case is a simple make that let's your Patchwork Sashiko textile shine right on the front. And it's useful! Inside you can store all the tools you need for your Patchwork Sashiko practice: thread, needles, silicone needle pullers, marking pens/pencils, snips and a small ruler.
The goal for this week is to have all the pieces cut, prepped and ready to sew together in week 2. The supply list is attached below and is also available on the SAL homepage. First we'll talk about the fabrics and materials. I won't go over everything in the supply list, just those items that I feel deserve some discussion. And you'll find links sprinkled here and there so that you know where to get these items. Then, we'll get into the cutting!
✨Share your progress on social media!
Use the hashtag #eclipseprojectcase and tag me @banjoflannel✨
Fabrics
Decorative Circle:
This project is designed to showcase a Patchwork Sashiko textile on the front, so I encourage you to get the book and get started on your textile now. We will not need the textile until the 3rd week, so there's plenty of time!
If you bought an Eclipse Project Case kit you've got a head start on all the materials including the patchwork pieces for the textile. If you don't have the kit, don't worry!
This is what you need for this project:
Use an 7'' x 7'' piece of muslin and interfacing
Patchwork Pieces:
Use 12 different fabrics (patterns/colors)
2 squares + 1 rectangle of each fabric type (36 total patchwork pieces)
Refer to the book for details regarding patchwork piece size and how to create your textile.
Of course, you can also use any favorite fabric you like as well! The fabrics I use in these tutorials is from Salty Hippo Studio:
Decorative Circle: Alice on Kona Suede
Shell, Lining & Open Pocket: Nellie on Kona Zinc
Zippered Pocket & Scrunchie Closure: Queen Anne on Kona Chalkboard
If you don't have time for slow-stitching, pull out that "special" fabric you've been saving and let's use it!
Shell & Lining (and scrunchie closure):
Fabric Type
Don't shy away from any fabrics you'd like to use! You can't go wrong with wovens, quilting cotton, canvas, linen blend...but if you have something lighter like a garment fabric, try it! Just add some light interfacing like Pellon SF101 Shape-flex to the wrong side to prevent stretching and to add weight.
I have recently become enamored with woven fabrics and the options are growing every year. I used them in the original sample and the kits. The only reason I didn't use them for the tutorial sample is because the wrong vs. right side isn't always obvious and I wanted the tutorial photos to be clear.
Directional vs. Non-Directional Fabric
If you're using a Patchwork Sashiko textile for the decorative circle, I like to orient it with the hand-stitching horizontal. So, choosing a Shell fabric with some lines or direction to it is nice for counteracting the hand-stitching direction. For instance, in the sample used in the main graphic above, the shell fabric stripes are oriented vertically.
I love directional fabrics, but this project will be a tad easier if you choose fabrics that are "tossed" or without direction. Directional fabrics will require more planning when it comes to cutting out the pieces.
Pattern size and Negative space
When closed, the project case is 4'' x 7''. So, ideally, choose your fabrics so that the pattern design is not so large that the pattern cannot be discerned within that space. In addition to the pattern size, the negative space is important as well. Imagine, you could have a large print, but the negative space (open space between designs) is small. This would still work well for this project. On the other hand, a small print that has a lot of negative space may not be great for the shell. You won't get a lot of the pattern seen in a 4'' x 7'' space.
Interfacing
I may use Pellon SF101 Shape-flex for almost everything. I use it anytime a fabric feels a little too flimsy in a project but I also don't want it to feel rigid. It's a woven, single-sided fusible interfacing that comes in both white and black versions.
Supplies
7'' long #3 nylon zipper
The #3 zipper size is 1'' wide, which is the critical part. I provide 2 different methods for sewing the zipper on. Both methods will result in an altered size in the zippered pocket if the zipper is wider or has larger teeth than a #3 zipper.
9'' long 1/8'' wide braided elastic
You have some leeway here. There's lots of widths and stretch differences. Anything too wide or strong is going to squish your project case together instead of gently keeping it closed! And we want to maintain the fun wrinkly folds of the scrunchie.
Scalloped scissors (optional)
These are my new favorite thing! They are like pinking shears but with a cute curved scalloped edge. A variety of sizes are available and the size I use is 5mm.
Cutting List
This is what you're starting with:
1/4 yard or Fat Quarter quilting cotton (see other options above) for Shell, Lining and Open Pocket
1/8 yard or Fat Eighth plus 2 1/2'' x WOF strip quilting cotton for Zippered Pocket and Scrunchie Closure (WOF is "width of fabric" and is typically 40'' - 44'', you can alternatively use the same Fat Eighth. You'll cut 2 strips of 2 1/2'' and sew them together like binding.)
From Shell, Lining and Open Pocket Fabric:
Here's where directional fabric needs a little extra attention. With your directional fabric in the “up” orientation, the 8 ½’’ edges of the following pieces run left to right.
Shell: Cut 1 rectangle 7 ½’’ x 8 ½’’
Lining: Cut 1 rectangle 7 ½’’ x 8 ½’’
Open Pocket: Cut 1 rectangle 6 ½’’ x 8 ½’’
I'm starting with a Fat Quarter sized piece (18'' x 22''). I want the design stripes to be oriented vertically on the case, so I'm orienting the fabric with the stripes running left to right. I cut an 8 1/2'' strip, then cut that strip into two 7 1/2'' wide pieces for the Shell and Lining.
There's not enough space left in this strip for the Open Pocket piece, so I cut another 8 1/2'' strip and cut a 6 1/2'' wide piece from it for the Open Pocket piece.
From Zippered Pocket and Scrunchie Closure Fabric:
With your directional fabric in the “up” orientation, the 7 ½’’ edges of the Zippered Pocket and 1 ½’’ edges of the Zipper Ends run left to right.
Zippered Pocket: Cut 2 rectangles; 1 of each = 2 ½’’ x 7 ½’’ and 4’’ x 7 ½’’
Using a Fat Eighth (9'' x 22'') I cut 2 strips of 2 1/2'' and 4'', then layer those together and trim to 7 1/2'' wide.
Zipper Ends: Cut 2 rectangles 1 ½’’ x 2 ¾’’
I cut another strip of 1 1/2'', then cut 2 pieces 2 3/4'' long each for the Zipper Ends.
Scrunchie Closure: Trim the 2 1/2'' x WOF strip to 29’’
My sample fabric is only a fat eighth, so I'm cutting 2 strips of 2 1/2'' and sewing them together with a miter joint like binding. Then, trimming to 29''.
From Shape Flex SF101:
Shell and Lining: Cut 2 rectangles 7 ½’’ x 8 ½’’
Open Pocket: Cut 1 rectangle 3 ¼’’ x 8 ½’’
Felt
Needle Minder: Cut 1 rectangle 1 ½’’ x 2 ½’’ (Use pinking or scalloped shears for a fun look!)
Preparation
Open the file above and print at 100% (not fit to page) on paper or card stock. Cut out the “Decorative Circle” and “Corner Curve” templates. If you're going to fussy cut the decorative circle piece, cut out the inside of the circle template and keep the outside. This will let you "frame" your design.
Fuse SF101 7 ½’’ x 8 ½’’ pieces to the WS of the Shell and Lining, respectively.
Press the 3 ¼’’ x 8 ½’’ Open Pocket piece in half lengthwise WST. Then, press to fuse the SF101 3 ¼’’ x 8 ½’’ piece to the WS on one side of the fold. The Open Pocket piece should still fold in half WST with raw edges aligning without being hindered by the SF101.
That's all for this week!
Not too bad, right? I'm excited to see all the fun fabric combos you come up with. This project is simple enough that you could easily collect fabrics and make a couple of cases. In Week 2 we'll start sewing the Eclipse Project Case together. Both a zig-zag/general presser foot and a 1/4'' presser foot (if you have one) will be utilized. See you then!
Don't forget to share your progress on social media!
I would love to see and share them.
Use the hashtag #eclipseprojectcase and tag me @banjoflannel
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